Day Five: Sikhs and the Border

Day Five January 26th

We arrived in Amritsar last night around 10pm. We only found out yesterday while visiting the Gurdwara in Ludhiana that today would be a very special day in Amritsar. The Golden Temple is located in this city, it is the holiest of Sihk temples. We were told that today commenorates the death of one of the most revered martrys of Sihkism. The story goes that during a battle between the Sihks and the Mughals, his head was cut clean off his head. His faith was so strong that he picked up his head in his hand and proceeded to fight the battle making his way to the present site of the Golden Temple. From there, he threw his head and finally died.

Upon arriving, we checked into the hotel and settled in, walking up to the rooftop for a view of the temple at night. It has a very mystical presence, a very peacful calm with the craziness of the city surrounding it from all sides.

In the morning we rose early to begin our day of touring. The temple was completely packed with worshipers, all waiting in a massive line for a chance to pay a visit to the main center temple where the hole writings are kept during the day. We walked the inner perimeter of the building and the pool with sacred water. All along the poolside pilgrims were stripping down to the bare minnimum to rinse themselves in the holy waters. In the temple they serve a communal meal to all as an offering of charity and goodwill; we can liken this to taking communion for Christians. Although this body of Christ is made of rice, bread and lentils and will fill you up.

We skipped the line for the temple since it would've been more than a two hour wait. Lunch was at a place call "The Brothers Dhaba," a restaurant recommended by our driver. Dhaba is a term used for road side restaurants that serve traditional food of the region. This was more of a large restaurant preteding to be a Dhaba. All five of us (the four whities and our driver) stuffed ourselves for a grand total of 478 Rupees or about $10.

After lunch we made the journey for the Wagah Border. This is the only border crossing between India and Pakistan. Around 4pm each afternoon they close the border and each side particpats in a peacful ritual and ceremony, each country chanting slogas such as "long live Pakistan" and "Great India."

We made it to the border area a bit early with some time to kill. We were told that up to 2500 people show up every day so when we were the first to arrive at the party we were a bit worried especially since today is one of India's three national holidays, Republic Day. Republic day celebrates the day that in 1950 India offically became a republic. Immediatly, as soon as we hopped out of our vehicle we were swamped with a crowd of kids wishing to sell us DVD's and photos of the crossing. With no no other visitors around we were there prime target for the next 20 or 30 minutes.

Finally, the gates are opened and there is a mad rush for the concrete stands where we would sit to watch the closing. Afer a security check that was almost as tight as a US airport (dogs and frisking.) As we headed in, a new friend (read: salesboy) that we made mentioned that we could get into the VIP section. Great idea! We walk over to the man with the large gun and ask to get in. We hand over our passports and with a shake of the head we are in. VIP treatment meant a much better view of the special performances that they were giving for the holiday.

Now we are back to Ludihana for the night and another enormous family meal.